A friend who is an auto electrician made a 4 hour round trip last weekend to help sort the battery in the boot conversion. We used 0 gauge cable that I pulled out of a 3 series Beemer from pick-a-part for $6 where they come standard with the battery in the boot. The full conversion has a 500 amp master switch in the center console, properly crimped terminals, shielding for its full length, double heat shrunk, runs through the cabin in the factory cable guides so it isn’t noticeable under the carpet and then through the inner guards for the wire tuck.
Next stop is Racefab for the exhaust.
Step 1: Roll and flare gurads
Step 2: Dial in camber
Looks like I could have gotten away with 15*9’s. It’ll go lower once the fronts sorted.
Considering the level of dust on mine, and that an Evo II front lip is now the most sought after piece of plastic in the world – maybe.
Then again, throw in some ignorance:
And some misinformation:
Just another day navigating the internets hack-a-day journalism. When we demand everything for nothing, what we get back will unquestionable be an inferior product.
I quite like this photo. I was hanging around in the pitlane during Practice 2 of the V8 Supertourers generally getting in everyones way when Andre pulled in and Paul Morris flung open the door to have a rather animated discussion with him. The whole exchange lasted all of five seconds, then Heimgartner was back on his way. Paul later went on in the race to take my friend out while battling for second, confirming the opinion of the majority of the motorsport community that he is an complete and utter tosser.
Straight off the bat they fit alright. The fronts will be easy, once the guards are pulled it’ll be dropped 10mm more. The rears will need more camber to sit nicely along with a decent guard pull. I have rear camber plates but the the strut tops will need to be redrilled to suit them first. If I’m going to do the whole slammed thing with this car then might as well go all out.
There are a few things on the car that were temporary to get it running, namely the wiring and cooling. Now that I know it runs they can be tided up. The EFI loom has been removed from the car to be stripped back to the bare essentials. A spare CA18 loom was used so any wires that required lengthening could be done so using the factory colours, and in regards to the AFM the factory shielding which is very heavy duty. The majority of the loom runs below the intake manifold so is hidden, and the injector dropping resistor, ignitor, fuses, and ground wires now route into the cabin through the AC grommet. The entire AC loom has been removed and the main body loom now runs along inside the guards and front bumper support so it is completely outside of the engine bay. The main power wires and alternator wiring / relay box will be done by an auto electrical when the battery is moved to the boot.
As for the cooling, there are no more 20+ year old rubber hoses left in this thing.
It is a goldmine for obsolete electronics.
HKS IPM – Displays injector duty cycle
HKS VPC – Converts airflow to speed density
Also acquired a CA18DET bottom end for something to put the rebuilt four port head on and thus give a me complete spare engine.
The growing collection of 1980’s and 1990’s electronics for the Pulsar:
HKS Turbo Timer IV
HKS SBC I
HKS EVC I
Maxon Radar Detector
And the piece de resistance, a dash mountable Sony Car Discman. Just need a 1 button AFC or 5 button SAFC to complete the set. Will probably need to source it off Yahoo jp as they are quite hard to come by now.
Everything will be completely functional, except the radar detector – Ka band hadn’t been invented in 1985. Also the Discman only seems to play sweet sweet 80′s syth pop.
Car starts its workshop tour of Chch 7 January 2013.