The shifter that came with the manual conversion had slop in the usual places, not to be unexpected with 20 year old parts. Finally rebuilt it with new bushings ala this video:
Just getting some parts back to original spec makes such a big difference. When doing the pre-cert there was a small amount of play in the inner tie rods. They probably would have been good enough to pass, but I replaced them anyway. Those alone changed the feel of the car more than anything else in the suspension setup including the coilovers.
As far as improving on stock I also did ye old solid mount conversion for both the base and cables ala Jafro’s video:
Now, this is the story all about how
My life got flipped-turned upside down
And I’d like to take a minute, this is no lie
I’ll tell you how I got this car ready to be certified.
In West Christchurch, born and raised
On the streets is where I spent most of my days
Chillin’ out, maxin’, relaxin’ all cool
And doing some boost runs passed the girls school
When a couple of officers who were up to no good
Started makin’ trouble in my neighborhood
I got in one little warning for no wof and reg
And they said, “You’ better get this sorted or you cars getting impounded”
Nothing major, should have this car legal in jig time.
SMD LED Conversion.
No more power hungry incandescents.
No more ugly yellow.
Crisp on/off indicators.
Actually usable dome / map lights.
Dome Light 32mm festoon
Map Lights: 32mm festoon
Cluster: T5 and T10 wedge
Keyring Light: T5 wedge
Park Lights: BA9S bayonet
Rear Licence Plate: T10 wedge
Front and Rear Indicators: 1156 bayonet
Side Indicators: T10 wedge
Reverse Lights: 1156 bayonet
Ran into a minor headache when fitting the park lights, turns out Mitsubishi wired then up wrong from the factory. Need to de-pin the connectors and swap them around for LEDs to work. Good one Mitsubishi .
Libero; now with period correct, kaido style gauge setup.
Having spent the last 18 months working on a car with no direct aftermarket support, I was hoping my life would be a little easier with the Libero in that there would be a range of bolt in parts to complete this job.
No such luck.
Evo I-III is too old nowadays it would seem, ended up doing everything myself.
CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) prototype:
And the finished product in carbon fibre.
Same deal with the A pillar.
When companies are flogging their cheap wares using photos they stole off the internet.
Considering the sad state of affairs when you image search “libero gt” into google, you can’t blame them.
It does make me thankful I was the recipient of a car built by someone with good overall taste, an understanding of period correct and with the foresight not ruin it with then current fads or trends that would date quickly. When you’ve changed almost nothing aesthetically in the last 7 years you’re doing it right!
Building the best CD5W in the country is almost as easy as building the best N13.
And I haven’t seen one good N13 in NZ.
Considering the level of dust on mine, and that an Evo II front lip is now the most sought after piece of plastic in the world – maybe.
Then again, throw in some ignorance:
And some misinformation:
Just another day navigating the internets hack-a-day journalism. When we demand everything for nothing, what we get back will unquestionable be an inferior product.
“It’s not a weak point, I like to think of it as a character flaw. People just aren’t complete without some kind of character flaw, don’t you think.”
This thing hasn’t moved much in the last couple of months but I thought I’d push it outside to get a couple of shots.
The rear Brembo conversion is all but done. Long story short it is a mammoth undertaking which is why so few people attempt it. Aside from Dirks orange Evo II and Jarreds Evo I RS in NZGT I’m not aware of any other CD5A chassis’s in the country with the full front and rear conversion. And certainly no CD5W’s. Due to the complications of the internal drum handbrake, the Evo VI hub assemblies have to be effectively grafted onto the diff housing. This is obviously far beyond my abilities so I have Jeremy and Rob to thank.
I couldn’t find any 25mm 1*114.3 hub & wheel centric spacers in the country so I ended up ordering some el cheapo eBay specials and then machining them to fit (as unsurprisingly their tolerances were shite). This removes the factory negative stagger offset front to rear.
Next step is dropping the rear 1″ to counter the rake, will be easy with a roll but as the bumpstops will require modifying I will only be doing this after discussing it with the guy certifying the car. An adjustable panhard rod will also be needed and is under construction.